NC Trip: Not for Vehicles Over Six Wheels (Day 2 - June 20, 2013)

We get on the road about 8:30, pass the West Virginia State Capitol building with its golden dome, and enjoy the green hills and winding roads of the surrounding countryside. Our mission this morning: find an interesting biking or hiking trail. We end up in Bluefield, WV—the historic center of the coalfields. At the Chamber of Commerce, we learn that Bluefield City Park has hiking trails and the best place for lunch is across the street at the Old City Hall building, built in 1924; it is now home to the Bluefield Area Arts Center. 

Marcia outside the Savory-Haven Cafe

At the Savory-Haven Café, we enjoy the daily special: chef’s salad and fresh raspberry crisp for $8.99. Since we have not had Wi-Fi or even steady cell coverage for the last 24 hours, we hang out at the café most of the afternoon, catching up, while the waitress keeps refilling our iced teas. Before we leave, we run up to the third floor to see Gary Boling’s House of Art. Gary tells us he is a Vietnam Vet and "dumpster diver" who gives back to his community by hosting art classes and performance nights in this amazing space, decorated with his found and reconstructed art.

At Bluefield City Park, next to baseball diamonds and tennis courts, we find the start of Sleeping Wolf Trail and hike a gorgeous, green and challenging 4 mile loop, ending up at the entrance to a kiddie park. What a resource for this community! 

GPS screen: hairpin turns on Route 623

From Bluefield, we go west to Tazewell and then head south on Route 623, a back road through Burke’s Garden, a high, fertile valley settled briefly by Burke after the Civil War until the remoteness and Native Americans scared him off. A sign warns, "Not recommended for vehicles with more than 6 wheels." We continue on. The road becomes crushed gravel, narrower, and more twisting. A Cooper Hawk swoops in front of the windshield and we pass the crossing of the Appalachian Trail. The Mercedes-Benz Sprinter chassis, with Mike at the wheel, handles the hairpin turns better than I do. 

At dusk, we come back into civilization and see a parasail off a northern slope. The three-quarter moon illuminate grey barns. From information we picked up in Bluefield, we learn about the Battle of Walker Mountain: Union General Tolman marched from Tazewell to Wytheville, where he was killed before the Confederates retreated to Rural Retreat. 

We camp just north of Wytheville, Virginia at lush, green Jefferson National Forest. Mike asks the campground host about cycling in the area, and he connects us to a biking group across the way from our camp. They tell us to head southwest toward Mount Rogers.